CADIZ When we arrive in Zahara de la Sierra, you won’t have much time to relax because we begin our walking tour almost immediately as we won’t be spending the night here. There will be short breaks, as most of our site seeing will be done by foot. In Zahara de La Sierra, there is an amazing view of the city and nature because the town sits on top of the hill. It is overlooking a valley and man-made lake. The only way to the top is to cross the bridge over the man-made lake. Along the way, we will stop to take pictures. Later, we will have a quick lunch and take the bus to Campina de Jerez and visit 1 of the 2 municipalities, Jerez de la Frontera. Here we will visit the Cathedral, Alcazar, a moorish fortress, Palace of Bertemati, and Monastery of la Cartuja, all of which are very beautiful and hold the history of the town. Then, we will check into the hotel, dinner is included, but you may venture out if you so desire, but we have an early morning because there is a lot to see in a short amount of time. The following day we check out and head to Costa Noroeste, also called Comarca of Bajo Guadalquivir. Since we don’t have time to visit all eleven municipalities, I think you will enjoy a visit to Rota which is located halfway between Portugal and Gilbraltar. Here we can admire the Castillo de Luna, Puerto Deportivo, and Igelsia de Nuestra Senora de la O. Rota is primarily a resort town, so you will definitely see many hotels. Keeping with our schedule, we go to Bahia de Cadiz and visit the city of Cadiz. Cadiz is known all over Spain and the world for its annual Carnaval de Cadiz, when people dress in costumes, and stay out all night drinking (more or less). Luckly, it has already happened, so you can enjoy a calm evening if you so desire. Before we check in, we will visit many plazas including Plaza San Antonion, Plaza Espana, the Cathedral, tavira Tower, Palacio de Congresos, and finally the Castle of Santa Catalina. On our final day, we begin in La Janda in a city called Medina-Sidonia and visit main sites such as the town hall, the Castle of Torrestrella, La Alameda, and Ducal Stables. Medina-Sidonia is thought by many to be the oldest city in Europe and is known for its medival walls and narrow streets. It also holds a lot of military history as it is said to have produced an admiral named, Alonso Perez de Guzman. We end out trip in Campo de Gilbraltar and visit Tarifa’s main monuments. Tarifa is situated on the Costa de la Luz, across the Straits of Gilbraltar facing Morocco. We will visit the Guzman Castle, remains of medival walls, Church of St. Matthew and the Roman ruins. And that concludes our itinerary of the Province of Cadiz!
Almeria
We arrived at the hotel right near the Cathedral. It is beautiful. I have seen some many like this one yet they all seem to impress me. Across the street, lays another marvel of Spain I am unaware of it at the current moment but the huge buttresses and intricate artesian work incite interest in me. We go to our rooms and I am wholly impressed. I have found myself on the moldy and dirty end of many widows and housekeepers rooms, but this is one of austerity and a sense of history it is in a word, beautiful. I can’t wait for our first adventure a trip to the cathedral of which our inn derives it name I can’t but hope it stories live up to it’s façade. After such an amazing view into the life of these people and can’t help but wonder what a taste of the regional cuisine at the Bodega Bellevista will hold.
My imagination could not have predicted such intricate tastes. I ordered what I believe were mussels in a red sauce that reeked of paprika and bit like the fish to bait that accompanied my pasta. Although I have never been a seafood eater or mariscos as they say here I can feel the attraction the locals would have to such a rich dish. I have no doubt if left to live here I could find room for it in my list of homie foods.
The next day began with a short trip what the guides keep calling a “Spaghetti Western” scenery park. The movies that they name: Lawrence of Arabia; The Good, the bad, and the ugly; some of my favorites, only incite a imagination that hasn’t reached this peak since childhood. They made no mistake and took no liberties in proclaiming this place the west of my cinematic childhood. Desert, desert is all I see; I honestly as a man who has been to the real West feel more at home here. The salt smell on the wind caring with it the golden sand of this desert reminds me of home, the South of America.
We returned home for what I thought was a appropriate dinner. LA gruta is known for its meat and after a trip to the fabled west I was ready for a hearty steak. The meat was superb, the sides delightful and the flan for desert was the best I’ve ever known. Sleep caught me quick with a full belly and a sun burned face as I prepared for our outdoor adventure the next day.
Cabo de Gata our next stop is nothing, but breathtaking. I have spent the better part of my year on the Andalusia coast yet I never believed such a stark contrast between coastal life, desert and the open sea could have such a effect. The harmony of the desolate with the life teaming below the surf gave me an understanding of how so many cultures could call this place home.
The Alcazaba is breathtaking. However much it reminds me of th Alhambra back in Granada with the sandstone colored buildings and intricate Muslim architecture, it has a style all its own. I thoroughly enjoyed the tour and the history of the Muslims using it as sea defense backdrop. I am astounded living normal in a city with so much of the Muslim area heritage, that they reached so far and accomplished so much.
Last day and Almeria and I’m sad to see it go. The beaches and parks were outstanding and the buildings breathtaking. I only hope a side of Granda I haven’t seen ahead will quench my lust for history and beauty as much as this little province has.
Granada
We arrive in Granada by bus from Almeria. On first glance Granada is spectacular. Not at all what I imagined, It is a bustling city, a mini-metropolis. But it has character. From the bus station I glimpse the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains, and on the way to our hotel we drive thru some beautiful plazas.It feels like a much bigger city than it really is. We arrive at our hostel on Camino de Ronda, a main street in Granada, and unpack our bags. There isn't much to do in the early afternoon here, almost all the shops are closed and few people are out on the streets. It is actually a little weird, but completely normal for Spaniards enjoying their Siestas. At 6pm, as sleepy Granada comes alive, we head to a famous street full of small bars that serve a free appetizer with your beer, wine or Tinto de Verano (wine + Lemon Fanta). This is what Granada is famous for, tapas bars. They are everywhere. this street alone must have 10-15 privately run bars, all one after the next. I enjoy a Jamon Iberico, salt cured ham, and cheese sandwich with my first tapa, and a plate of canned tuna topped with an interesting white sauce for my second. We then leave, heading up the lazy incline towards the Albaicin, the old Moorish area. There are numerous Teterias (tea shops), more tapas bars, and every kind of street performer and souvenir shop you could imagine. I see one man juggling bowling pins, while a lady hawks hand made leather wine casks. Slowly the Albaicin becomes more residential, and the lazy slope turns into a steep grade. When we reach the Mirador de San Nicolas, I am blown away. I am able to see the whole city of Granada, with the sun setting over the mountains and the Alhambra immediately to my left. It is an amazing sight. After the sun finally sets and the flamenco guitarists have dispersed, we head back down the hill toward our hostel.
The next morning starts out early with an amazing 4hr guided tour of the Alhambra Palace, built by the moors in the 15th century, and one of the most impressive structures I have ever been inside. Words cannot do it justice, and I daren't try. After the Alhambra tour, we head to another plaza with many tapas bars and lots of outdoor seating. It is a gorgeous day to be outside. But my feet are already starting to ache from all the climbing and walking we have done. After 4 or 5 tapas, we head to the Parque de Ciencias. The Park is a 30000 sq. ft. 4 building attraction with scientific experiments about meteorology, geography and astronomy. There is a giant chess board, a distorted house and a plant maze which is thoroughly amusing. After the Park, we siesta. And I need it. At about 5pm we go to the famous Catedral in Granada, take a tour and see the tombs of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel, the Catholic King and Queen as they are known. Then we take a bus to the Bullring, and a walking tour inside. We watch a video of a bull being slaughtered, and I almost lose the tapas I ate earlier. Thankfully we weren't at a real bullfight. We enjoy some more tapas at the bar inside the ring, while we wait to go to a Flamenco show.
The flamenco show is unbelievable. Almost 2 hours of amazing music, beautiful dancing and blinding lights. What a spectacle!! An experience not known to many, but well worth it. After a hard day's sightseeing, I call it a night.
Our third and final day in Granada is spent touring the Sacromonte caves above the city. What an interesting place! Moorish and gitano ancestors carved cave-houses out of the soft rock, and made quite a community. There is flamenco ,music everywhere. Beware of pickpockets in this area. We watch a 15 minute flamenco performance in the street, which is followed by ovations from the crowd, and an encore to follow. I really feel immersed in the Spanish/Moorish culture that Andalusia has to offer. Sadly, we have to leave to head back to the hostel to check out and catch our bus. On the way back we stop in a beautiful plaza and devour our last free appetizers. The best tapas were here though. We visited 3 different bars, I enjoyed meatballs, deep-fried shrimp and a traditional Spanish omelet made with eggs and potatoes.
What a city. Will I ever be back? Definitely!
When we arrive in Zahara de la Sierra, you won’t have much time to relax because we begin our walking tour almost immediately as we won’t be spending the night here. There will be short breaks, as most of our site seeing will be done by foot. In Zahara de La Sierra, there is an amazing view of the city and nature because the town sits on top of the hill. It is overlooking a valley and man-made lake. The only way to the top is to cross the bridge over the man-made lake. Along the way, we will stop to take pictures. Later, we will have a quick lunch and take the bus to Campina de Jerez and visit 1 of the 2 municipalities, Jerez de la Frontera. Here we will visit the Cathedral, Alcazar, a moorish fortress, Palace of Bertemati, and Monastery of la Cartuja, all of which are very beautiful and hold the history of the town. Then, we will check into the hotel, dinner is included, but you may venture out if you so desire, but we have an early morning because there is a lot to see in a short amount of time. The following day we check out and head to Costa Noroeste, also called Comarca of Bajo Guadalquivir. Since we don’t have time to visit all eleven municipalities, I think you will enjoy a visit to Rota which is located halfway between Portugal and Gilbraltar. Here we can admire the Castillo de Luna, Puerto Deportivo, and Igelsia de Nuestra Senora de la O. Rota is primarily a resort town, so you will definitely see many hotels. Keeping with our schedule, we go to Bahia de Cadiz and visit the city of Cadiz. Cadiz is known all over Spain and the world for its annual Carnaval de Cadiz, when people dress in costumes, and stay out all night drinking (more or less). Luckly, it has already happened, so you can enjoy a calm evening if you so desire. Before we check in, we will visit many plazas including Plaza San Antonion, Plaza Espana, the Cathedral, tavira Tower, Palacio de Congresos, and finally the Castle of Santa Catalina. On our final day, we begin in La Janda in a city called Medina-Sidonia and visit main sites such as the town hall, the Castle of Torrestrella, La Alameda, and Ducal Stables. Medina-Sidonia is thought by many to be the oldest city in Europe and is known for its medival walls and narrow streets. It also holds a lot of military history as it is said to have produced an admiral named, Alonso Perez de Guzman. We end out trip in Campo de Gilbraltar and visit Tarifa’s main monuments. Tarifa is situated on the Costa de la Luz, across the Straits of Gilbraltar facing Morocco. We will visit the Guzman Castle, remains of medival walls, Church of St. Matthew and the Roman ruins. And that concludes our itinerary of the Province of Cadiz!
Almeria
We arrived at the hotel right near the Cathedral. It is beautiful. I have seen some many like this one yet they all seem to impress me. Across the street, lays another marvel of Spain I am unaware of it at the current moment but the huge buttresses and intricate artesian work incite interest in me. We go to our rooms and I am wholly impressed. I have found myself on the moldy and dirty end of many widows and housekeepers rooms, but this is one of austerity and a sense of history it is in a word, beautiful. I can’t wait for our first adventure a trip to the cathedral of which our inn derives it name I can’t but hope it stories live up to it’s façade. After such an amazing view into the life of these people and can’t help but wonder what a taste of the regional cuisine at the Bodega Bellevista will hold.
My imagination could not have predicted such intricate tastes. I ordered what I believe were mussels in a red sauce that reeked of paprika and bit like the fish to bait that accompanied my pasta. Although I have never been a seafood eater or mariscos as they say here I can feel the attraction the locals would have to such a rich dish. I have no doubt if left to live here I could find room for it in my list of homie foods.
The next day began with a short trip what the guides keep calling a “Spaghetti Western” scenery park. The movies that they name: Lawrence of Arabia; The Good, the bad, and the ugly; some of my favorites, only incite a imagination that hasn’t reached this peak since childhood. They made no mistake and took no liberties in proclaiming this place the west of my cinematic childhood. Desert, desert is all I see; I honestly as a man who has been to the real West feel more at home here. The salt smell on the wind caring with it the golden sand of this desert reminds me of home, the South of America.
We returned home for what I thought was a appropriate dinner. LA gruta is known for its meat and after a trip to the fabled west I was ready for a hearty steak. The meat was superb, the sides delightful and the flan for desert was the best I’ve ever known. Sleep caught me quick with a full belly and a sun burned face as I prepared for our outdoor adventure the next day.
Cabo de Gata our next stop is nothing, but breathtaking. I have spent the better part of my year on the Andalusia coast yet I never believed such a stark contrast between coastal life, desert and the open sea could have such a effect. The harmony of the desolate with the life teaming below the surf gave me an understanding of how so many cultures could call this place home.
The Alcazaba is breathtaking. However much it reminds me of th Alhambra back in Granada with the sandstone colored buildings and intricate Muslim architecture, it has a style all its own. I thoroughly enjoyed the tour and the history of the Muslims using it as sea defense backdrop. I am astounded living normal in a city with so much of the Muslim area heritage, that they reached so far and accomplished so much.
Last day and Almeria and I’m sad to see it go. The beaches and parks were outstanding and the buildings breathtaking. I only hope a side of Granda I haven’t seen ahead will quench my lust for history and beauty as much as this little province has.
Granada
We arrive in Granada by bus from Almeria. On first glance Granada is spectacular. Not at all what I imagined, It is a bustling city, a mini-metropolis. But it has character. From the bus station I glimpse the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains, and on the way to our hotel we drive thru some beautiful plazas.It feels like a much bigger city than it really is. We arrive at our hostel on Camino de Ronda, a main street in Granada, and unpack our bags. There isn't much to do in the early afternoon here, almost all the shops are closed and few people are out on the streets. It is actually a little weird, but completely normal for Spaniards enjoying their Siestas. At 6pm, as sleepy Granada comes alive, we head to a famous street full of small bars that serve a free appetizer with your beer, wine or Tinto de Verano (wine + Lemon Fanta). This is what Granada is famous for, tapas bars. They are everywhere. this street alone must have 10-15 privately run bars, all one after the next. I enjoy a Jamon Iberico, salt cured ham, and cheese sandwich with my first tapa, and a plate of canned tuna topped with an interesting white sauce for my second. We then leave, heading up the lazy incline towards the Albaicin, the old Moorish area. There are numerous Teterias (tea shops), more tapas bars, and every kind of street performer and souvenir shop you could imagine. I see one man juggling bowling pins, while a lady hawks hand made leather wine casks. Slowly the Albaicin becomes more residential, and the lazy slope turns into a steep grade. When we reach the Mirador de San Nicolas, I am blown away. I am able to see the whole city of Granada, with the sun setting over the mountains and the Alhambra immediately to my left. It is an amazing sight. After the sun finally sets and the flamenco guitarists have dispersed, we head back down the hill toward our hostel.
The next morning starts out early with an amazing 4hr guided tour of the Alhambra Palace, built by the moors in the 15th century, and one of the most impressive structures I have ever been inside. Words cannot do it justice, and I daren't try. After the Alhambra tour, we head to another plaza with many tapas bars and lots of outdoor seating. It is a gorgeous day to be outside. But my feet are already starting to ache from all the climbing and walking we have done. After 4 or 5 tapas, we head to the Parque de Ciencias. The Park is a 30000 sq. ft. 4 building attraction with scientific experiments about meteorology, geography and astronomy. There is a giant chess board, a distorted house and a plant maze which is thoroughly amusing. After the Park, we siesta. And I need it. At about 5pm we go to the famous Catedral in Granada, take a tour and see the tombs of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel , the Catholic King and Queen as they are known. Then we take a bus to the Bullring, and a walking tour inside. We watch a video of a bull being slaughtered, and I almost lose the tapas I ate earlier. Thankfully we weren't at a real bullfight. We enjoy some more tapas at the bar inside the ring, while we wait to go to a Flamenco show.
The flamenco show is unbelievable. Almost 2 hours of amazing music, beautiful dancing and blinding lights. What a spectacle!! An experience not known to many, but well worth it. After a hard day's sightseeing, I call it a night.
Our third and final day in Granada is spent touring the Sacromonte caves above the city. What an interesting place! Moorish and gitano ancestors carved cave-houses out of the soft rock, and made quite a community. There is flamenco ,music everywhere. Beware of pickpockets in this area. We watch a 15 minute flamenco performance in the street, which is followed by ovations from the crowd, and an encore to follow. I really feel immersed in the Spanish/Moorish culture that Andalusia has to offer. Sadly, we have to leave to head back to the hostel to check out and catch our bus. On the way back we stop in a beautiful plaza and devour our last free appetizers. The best tapas were here though. We visited 3 different bars, I enjoyed meatballs, deep-fried shrimp and a traditional Spanish omelet made with eggs and potatoes.
What a city. Will I ever be back? Definitely!